Rediscovering Karkala

Hiding near the foothills of the Western Ghats, neighbouring the west coast of India, Karkala, a small town close to Mangalore, has lots to offer. The tropical climate, abundant vegetation and a variety of creatures, make it an ideal location for nature lovers. After all these years, it was now that I truly realised what a paradise nature had turned Karkala into. This summer stay at Karkala, opened a new door of appreciation for this place, in me.

The paddy field

I started off by visiting one of the many paddy fields that dot Karkala. Recent showers of rain had moderately flooded the fields. Hovering low over the fields were hundreds of insects, pond herons regularly bobbed their heads from between the paddy stalks. Streams that lined the fields contained small schools of fish, quickly darting in all directions, as we disturbed their path. As we were about to leave, a curious, young boy who was following us for a while now, wanted to take us to a pond, which he claimed was abundant in insects. The pond was a great delight to us all. As we approached the pond, a common kingfisher took off from it's perch. Dragonflies and damselflies of all colours and sizes flew about. Hidden in the vegetation, white-breasted water hens called as they rummaged for food. After shooting photographs to my satisfaction, we left the field.

The Gommateshwara Statue

The view from the hill

Karkala is probably most famous for it's very own archaeological splendour, the Gommateshwara Statue. This 46-foot statue stands on a low hill, which needs to be ascended using a flight of 200 or more rock-cut steps. A wonderful experience welcomes you once you are on the hill. One feels as if one is on top of the world. Just before sunset is the best time of the day to visit. On one side, the high mountains of the Western ghats seem to disappear into the evening light, on the other, the bright sun illuminates the canopy of coconut groves and the scattered low hills. The view from this hill is amazing. Auto Rickshaws can take you here from anywere in the town. If your hungry after your trip here, there are a few shops at the foot of the hill, which over the years have become famous for their food. A gourmet, called 'Charmure Pachhadi' in Konkani, is a take away, mainly containing puffed riced which is flavored with grated raw mangoes, lemons, chilli powder, carrots(grated), oil, salt and other natural flavourings. This is one tangy dish you cannot miss. Likewise, a visit to Karkala is incomplete without a visit to the Gommateshwara Statue.

Durga

Durga

About 5-6 kilometers away from Karkala's bus stand is splendid location locally called ' Durga '. Set amidst a forest, this is actually a stream with rapids. During the rainy season, it is impossible to enter the water because of the sheer force of the water. During summer, it has a more peaceful look, with thin channels of water flowing from between the boulders. The marshy areas along with the dense vegetation at the edge of the stream attract spectacular dragonflies, damselflies, beetles and other critters. The streams form tiny ponds at many places which contain fish and snails. Many types of kingfishers, wag tails, drongos and other rare birds visit this place. The sound of the streams is quite soothing. The best time to visit this place is late morning, not only because the lighting conditions are perfect, but also because there are local people around and a few which buses ferry people between the centre of the town and here. There are no street lights in this part of Karkala, as it a forest and leaving before it gets dark is ideal.

Malpe Beach

Malpe beach, a popular weekend hangout is situated about 40 kilometers from Karkala, near Udupi. From Karkala's bus stand, many local buses go to Udupi, from here, Malpe beach is just 4 kilometers away which can be reached by hiring an auto rickshaw. This is the closest beach near Karkala where one can soak up the sun. I visited Malpe Beach on a Sunday and the whole shoreline was crowded, we were lucky to find a somewhat secluded spot. The sun rays were in the right angle, to set that perfect mood. A few camels roamed about, their masters offering joy rides. Once in the water, the waves were the main source of fun. The sky had many fliers, brahminy kites, black kites, and crows.You can't call this a serene location, rather, it's the crowd and the waves that push the tempo and this place is all about fun and excitement.

The Charriot

Pulling of the Charriot

The most famous temple in Karkala is the Padu Thirupathi Temple, where Lord Venkatramana is worshipped. This temple has a charriot festival which is held anually. The massive charriot, hundreds of years old(and I mean hundreds!) is beautifully decorated during this festival. The festival is a 5-day long celebration and on the 5th day(at midnight) hundreds of people pull the charriot through the main street of Karkala. Thousands of people flock to watch this spectacular sight. I myself was there and I visit Karkala every year during this festival.


There are many more places in Karkala where one can see nature in full bloom. The lakes Ramsamudra and Anekere, are 'the' places to see water birds, especially Anekere, where large aggregations of water birds can be seen. Karkala, a tiny wonder, is a place not to be forgotten.



Getting there:

Descent buses from Bangalore go to Karkala. The journey takes about 8 hours. I usually travel by Vishal Travels or Sugama Tourist.

Where to stay:

The best hotels to stay in Karkala are Hotel Sagar and Hotel Prakash, they are close to main bus stand. Hotel Prakash is a new hotel and the rooms and pretty good, although I don't stay in a hotel in Karkala, I've seen the rooms.

Others:

There are quite a few ATM's in Karkala and a few are close to the main bus stand of Karkala. Carry hats because sometimes the sun can bake you. During the rainy season, it's quite sensible to carry rain coats and umbrellas.